The Pilsner has been making a comeback for at least the last five years. American […]
Caves São João
Poço do Lobo
Vinho Regional Beiras
Unbelievable minerality, with beeswax, white flowers, ginger root, and orange peel. Amazingly complex and aging gracefully. A show-stopper.
Dirceu Vianna Junior MW
Writer: Matthew Crawford Editor: Jameson Fink
The Caves São João winery is owned by the Costa family and is the only winery in Portugal commercially releasing library wines from Bairrada and Dão all the way back to the 1950s. It’s a decision we should be grateful for, as this 1991 Poço do Lobo bottling is extremely impressive. This wine is 100% Arinto from Beiras, and has unbelievable freshness for a 28-year-old white wine plus crazy intensity and complexity. The nose has aromas of fresh beeswax and lemon curd, with an undeniable minerality. There are well-balanced oxidative notes of almond and marzipan that feel like a nod to Fino Sherry. All of this leads to the most impressive part of this wine and that is the acidity, still super-alive and driving an even fresher feel on the palate. A perfect companion for seafood dishes like cioppino or steamed mussels.